A trip to the Okavango swamps
Not many people get to tick off items on their bucket list but when they do magic occurs. JUDY DEARLING tells her story.
SOMETIMES, even in our comparatively sleepy neck of the woods, one can forget about the beauty and tranquility of nature.
I was recently reminded that I am a ‘child of Africa’ during a short visit to the Okavango swamps on a camping and fishing expedition.
Surprisingly, where we were (350kms north of Maun), the Okavango river runs at 4–6 knots current, nothing like the picture in my mind’s eye of stagnant, mosquito infested waters!
October is almost the lowest the river reaches and at this time of the year the Bulldog fish make their way out of the papyrus to the edge of the river flow, to perpetuate their species.
A sub-sonic signal is emitted by them to attract mates and this is picked up by the Barbel.
A mad frenzy ensues with Barbel churning up the waters – ‘boiling’ is the only word I can use to describe this activity.
When they feel a Bulldog fish brush their feelers, the snap their mouths shut with a mighty crack, which can be likened to breaking sticks.
All this commotion attracts the Tiger fish, hundreds of squawking birds and, of course, fishermen.
In a short five days, we spotted 72 species of bird and missed many more, I’m sure.
Each twist of the river exposed a sandbank and a pair of African Skimmers, which immediately took to the air and defended their territory.
All aeronautical engineers should take time out to study their wing shape and acrobatic abilities. Of course their colouring and the bright orange beak were a sight to see.
We became blasé about photographing Fish Eagles, as there was a pair on each majestic tree on the banks!
Giant Kingfishers lived in the tree at the edge of our camp, as well as a nesting pair of Flycatchers.
The fruit bats hung out all day in this same tree. An absolutely remarkable way to spend the heat of the day and evening.
We were treated to an amazing camp holiday by Henkie, Herman, Jan and Victor, all dedicated conservationists and educators.
I secretly hoped to lose a bit of weight with camp food for a week, but to my dismay, we ate three wholesome meals per day and even had dessert each night. Victor’s camp cooking skills have become a benchmark in bush cooking and Fred and I have decided that we’re not as good as we thought!
Being so close to the borders of Botswana and Namibia, we took the opportunity to drive another 100kms north and enter the Mohembe National Park, just inside the Namibian border.
Once again, the sheer unspoiled, wild Africa did not disappoint us.
Within two hours, we saw Sable, Roan, Sitatunga, Lechwe, Impala, Kudu Antelopes, Elephant, Giraffe, Warthog, Baboon, Crocodile, Hippopotamus and many more, including some new bird species.
A quick lunch at the Ngepi camp did not disappoint us with their quirky sense of humour! The visitors’ toilets caused much mirth between us, as well as the special swim in the river in the ‘hippo pool’.
One strike through the list and one 44 gallon overflowing bucket full of experiences.
So for the future, we’ll be putting names in the hat and drawing out the next adventure, even though the temptation to return for a repeat is almost over-powering. There is so much to see in Africa, people to meet, cultures to learn; I can hardly wait!
