London Letter: Lessons from having hangovers somewhere new

Most people think the waves of immigrants flooding Europe are struggling Third Worlders starting a new life.

That is often the case, but in many European Union countries the biggest influx of foreigner is not battlers with begging bowls, but actually citizens of other EU countries. For example, there are more French in London than there are in any city in France, apart from Paris and Marseilles.

Indeed, one of the biggest group of ‘immigrants’ in Europe are the Brits – as I discovered in Spain over New Year.

As reader(s) of this column may know, I spent the advent of 2015 hiking in Andalusia under the flimsy pretext of teaching Spanish waiters called Manuel how to sing Auld Lang Syne.

Management rather cruelly remarked that I just wanted to have a hangover somewhere new, which is borderline slander.

However, I soon discovered that as nearly a quarter of the inhabitants in Torrox, the village where we were based, are foreigners, Auld Lang Syne was ‘auld’ hat to them.

Indeed, there are nearly a million Brits living in Spain.

Most are there for the obvious reason – sunshine – and it seems there is little local resentment towards them, unlike the anti-Anglo sentiment in France.

I reckon that’s probably because in Andalusia, which is one of the poorer regions of Spain, the Brits provide much capital and employment, even if it’s only quaffing vast quantities of cold cerveza to keep the breweries ticking over.

To give an example of the economic boost from expats, Walk Andalusia, the holiday guides we used, is owned by Brits who completely booked out the village hotel during the week; filled different local restaurants every night and hired the local café to make packed lunches every day.

To say we were treated like Royalty is seriously understating the case.

In fact, the owner of Walk Andalusia, Paul Fellows is a good example of the Brit expat who goes to Spain to embrace the Mediterranean way of life.

Winging it

About 10 years ago he, his wife Vicki and young daughter left England for a travelling adventure, going where their whim took them. A builder by trade, he loved the outdoors and he had enough money saved to wing it for a year.

They arrived in Torrox and were setting up camp when another Brit told them then there was going to be a once in a lifetime storm that night. The Costa del Sol has about 300 days of sun a year – so rain is a big deal.

Paul and Vicki decided that instead of being wet and miserable in a tent, they would move into the village. They are still there today, although they have moved out of that apartment into a house with a swimming pool.

As avid hikers, they bought Walk Andalusia last year and are now looking to expand to other Spanish-speaking countries such as Cuba.

Their daughter is studying law at the University of Malaga, and although she looks like an English rose, for all intents and purposes she is Spanish. Paul and Vicki also speak the language perfectly.

Another expat, David, told us that he had come to Spain 15 years ago, fell in love with the place and sold up everything to buy several acres in the countryside where he and his wife grow olives and vegetables.

They supplement their income guiding walks through the mountains and their knowledge of the country – social, economic and historical – is immense. It was fascinating talking to them.

But sadly, Paul and David are in the minority among the expats. A significant number of Brits don’t bother to learn Spanish and spend their days with other Brits who don’t integrate.

As a result, they are on a hiding to nothing, getting little out of the country and not embracing the Mediterranean ethos so essential to living in Spain. After a few years many go home, having lost much money on their dream in the sun.

However, those who stay contribute hugely to the Spanish economy, and in return, get a way of life impossible to replicate in Britain.

Now if I could only teach the locals how to sing Auld Lang Syne.