Beautiful scenery, blisters and memorable experiences
Leon Willemse shares his experiences on week 2 of his long Camino walk
THE second week of my Camino started with two long stages in scorching heat, and I took some strain.
I had to dig deep to remain positive, but it helped because I then had some wonderful walks and saw some beautiful places.
My feet are starting to show signs of punishment with blisters appearing this week.
I have been nursing them diligently and towards the end of the week started to change my socks after every two hours of walking.
Luckily there was no rain this week.
Day 7 (1 August)
Juan-Luis, the owner of the hotel where I am staying, is an extraordinary person.
In his bar/dining room is a full scale wood-carved Harley Davidson motorbike he created himself. Not something that vaguely resembles it, but an exact replica out of wood!
On the wall is a newspaper clipping and photos of his full scale wooden replica of Spanish hero Fernando Alonso’s Ferrari F1 race car.
Absolutely fantastic. He has mastered the use of a Spanish-English app and that is how we conversed.
Today was a rest day, so I woke up at 8.30am and spent the day relaxing.
I took a short stroll to the Basílica de Santa María de Los Arcos.
Tomorrow will be a tough 28km to Logroño.
Day 8 (2 August)
Today was a long walk from Los Arcos to Logroño – I finished the 28km in 6 hours 38 minutes.
The sun baked down and there was very little shade.
The terrain was 95% gravel roads with a few nasty downhills that really worked the knees.
Except for farmlands, there was not much to see.
Walking alone, I was able to think about many things, which is exactly what the Camino is about.
Tomorrow will be another long, hard day to Nájera.
Day 9 (3 August)
Today was hot – 39 degrees – and long, and by far the toughest day.
The 33km took me just over eight hours, the whole time walking with a blister on my right heel.
Along the road I stopped and put my feet in a small water duct that supplies the town with irrigation water.
Things do not always go perfectly and today was one of those days.
Despite pre-booking (and paying for) my accommodation, the albergue was full and they had no booking for me.
I eventually found a bed in the municipal albergue.
Day 10 (4 August)
This morning was a lovely cloudy morning, ideal walking weather.
I started well rested, hitting the road at 6.15 on my way to Santo Domingo de la Calzada.
These Spaniards sure consume a lot of vino tinto. I had a walking buddy the whole trip today, which was nice after my solo walks the previous two days.
Reaching Santo Domingo de la Calzada just after 11am, the 22.3km walk, mostly through vineyards, took just under five hours.
Day 11 (5 August)
Today I left the La Rioja region and crossed over to the Castilla y León region.
The stage from Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado was enjoyable, with the first part through wheat fields and the odd sunflower field.
The area had lots of rolling hills and reminded me of the Western Cape’s Swartland.
The 22.1km took me almost five hours in beautiful sunshine.
Day 12 (6 August)
Today’s 28.3km walk from Belorado to Santovenia de Oca took six hours.
I felt strong and could walk at a good pace, but unfortunately developed another blister.
On the up side, I won’t lose toenails as I thought I would.
Dormitory accommodation consists of anything from four to 90 bunk beds in a dorm and you find a shop to buy food which you prepare in the albergue kitchen.
Alternatively, you eat at a restaurant, all of which have a peregrinos (pilgrims) menu.
For anything from one to four people, you pay 11 Euros.
For this you get a three course meal which consists of a choice of three to six starters, five main courses, three puddings and a bottle of red wine (vino tinto).
Day 13 (7 August)
I left Santovenia de Oca at 6am and was totally alone on the road.
I was on the old Camino route which is hardly ever used by pilgrims.
After reaching Burgos at 11am, I spent the afternoon strolling through the historic city centre.
I visited the absolutely breathtaking Santa Iglesia Cathedral Basílica Metropolitana de Santa María de Burgos, and one of the 12 city doors of the Middle Ages, the Arco de Santa María.
My last visit was to the Iglesia de San Lesmes Abad church that contains the remains of San Lesmes, the patron of the city.
The day ended with dinner with fellow pilgrims at Casa Pancho restaurant which has been operating for the past 61 years.
Tomorrow is my rest day.
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